in a city of sin, the tamest day

Since my computer decided to break the second I stepped into New Orleans, I decided to keep a journal old fashioned way. Because I had an amazing amazing time, and because I definitely want to keep the memories and impressions of this trip immortalized somewhere other than my head, I'll be slowly transcribing my notes here. Without further ado:

DAY ONE

I started to grin almost as soon as I hit the gate to New Orleans. The passengers were the perfect mix of southern charm and cowboy rough. Bouffant hairdos meets snake skin boots, and are pulled together by the most adorable drawls I think I have ever heard in my whole life. I spent the majority of my life (erroneously) equating southern drawls with all sorts of negative things (i.e. bible belt conservative rednecks...sorry) and have fallen so in love with the south now that I can't imagine what was wrong with me.

The first day was low-key. Stepping out of the airport the heat slams you like a ton of bricks, and you can literally feel the weight of the air pressing into your lungs. After an awesome reunion with an old friend we drove immediately to the ninth ward--the neighborhood of New Orleans made infamous in Katrina's wake. While it was clear that reconstruction efforts had been underway for some time there was still a breathtaking amount of remaining damage. Weirdly modern homes--the product of Brad Pitt's "Make It Right" charity project-- stood brand new in some lots. They gleamed with paint, but looked unnatural next to the empty concrete slabs that were the only indication of where homes once stood. A few houses remained only in part. Half of a brick wall, or the eerie stairs that ended in nothingness. We spied a few tenants staring back out at us, isolated in out locked car. I wondered if I was being a voyeur. New Orleans is a weird and wonderful place, and its easy to get caught in the tourist trap of partying and to forget the poverty and danger that affects the majority of residents here. I though it might be sobering and important to see all faces of the city. But is that selfish? My desire to understand led me to place the people of the ninth into a fishbowl. I might personally gain from this, but how about them?

Other highlights of the day include sampling the first of many New Orleans specialties--the po'boy. A sandwich served on crusty french bread, these can be found all over the city, typically dressed with anything at all fried. Tried the local brew, Abita, in both regular and raspberry. Delicious. Came home and crashed, hope to do more serious exploring tomorrow.